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INVENTORY and "BOAT OF THE WEEK"  

 

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BOATING TIPS

This list is a compilation of our "Best of" and recommended practices. Check back often as we update it regularly.

23. Are you getting your gear ready for the upcoming fall season? Now is a good time to double check your trolling motor setup. Connectors, terminals, plugs and wires should all be examined, cleaned and checked.

22. With summer comes increases boat use and more time in the saltwater means a bit more maintenance. Check all your electrical connectors (you are looking inside you console on a regular basis aren't you?) and give them a good spray of an anti-corrosion aerosol.

21. Does your anchor have exposed ends on the cross bar? Many of the more knowledgeable and experienced boaters coat the tips of the cross bar with a rubberized compound to avoid dings in their anchor locker. Don't coat the ends of the flukes, this can prevent your anchor from digging into the bottom properly.

20. You are checking the Maverick Forum frequently aren't you? The forum is a terrific source of information.

19. Boat ropes can get stiff and hard to handle over time. Soak them in a bucket of freshwater. Change the water numerous times (some folks just let a hose run in the bucket) until the rope is clean. Once clean, let the rope soak about an hour in bucket of fresh water with about a quarter cup of fabric softener in it. Dry your ropes thoroughly and put them back on the boat. You'll find them a lot easier to handle and store.

18. Have you checked the expiration date on your flares lately? How about the charge on your fire extinguisher and other safety equipment?

17. Checking the cotter pin on your prop should be part of your pre-launch routine. Checking carefully for monofilament line can prevent a ruined seal on your lower unit.

16. Do you carry a spare key for your boat's ignition IN your boat? Come see Curtis in our Service Department and get a spare key you can hide it in your boat. This prior planning can turn an "UH OH! What now?" into an "oh well, no problem".

15. This is a GREAT time of year to have your annual service done. Don't wait until the spring rush, get it done now and you can be fishing when the first warm front arrives and the fish go 'on the feed'.

14. When you go out boating are you the only one who knows how to operate the boat? Take the time to show at least one other person on board how to start, stop and operate the engine. A few minutes teaching can pay big dividends later if something happens to you. 

13. Boat covers are a great way to fight the aging effects of the sun on gelcoat and marine equipment. Boat covers should be removed before towing your boat. If you leave your boat cover on while trailering your boat the fabric of the cover and the buckles or straps (especially the buckles and strap) will more than likely rub spots thru the gelcoat on your boat that are expensive to get repaired.

12. File a float plan. File a float plan. File a float plan.  Did we mention that you should file a float plan?

11. Use of the ignition switch lanyard (commonly called the 'kill switch') can save your life. Always have it attached any time you operate the engine. ALWAYS USE IT!

10. Trailers need maintenance. Check them out often. Lubricating the hubs and checking that all lug nuts are tight should be done before any long trip.

9. Boat insurance comes in many flavors. Be sure to have your insurance agent explain the "Agreed Upon Value" option to see if it is the right choice for you.

8.  Proper boat ramp etiquette can go a long way towards making the day pleasant and enjoyable for everyone. Before you pull to the ramp be sure to stop at the staging area and load all gear, undo straps, attach mooring and handling lines and perform all other necessary tasks to get your boat ready to launch. Having your boat loaded and ready to go before leaving the staging the area is an indication of an experienced boater. Once everything is ready then proceed to the ramp and launch your boat.

7. When you bring your new boat home for the first time be sure to take a lot (as in at least several dozen) digital pictures of everything on the boat. Make an extra effort to set up good lighting in dark spaces, take photos from several angles and be sure to take clear close-ups of all serial numbers, brand names and options. If a situation arises where you need them, they will prove to be invaluable. 

6. Some great info about stainless steel:

The basic resistance of stainless steel occurs because of its ability to form a protective coating on the metal surface. This coating is a "passive" film which is resistant to further "oxidation" or rusting. The formation of this film is instantaneous in an oxidizing atmosphere such as air, water, or many other fluids that contain oxygen. Once the layer has formed we say that the metal has become "passivated" and the oxidation or "rusting" rate will slow down to less than 0.002" per year (0,05 mm. per year).

Unlike aluminum or silver this passive film is invisible in stainless steel. It is due to the combining of oxygen with the chrome in the stainless to form chrome oxide which is more commonly called "ceramic". This protective oxide or ceramic coating is common to most corrosion resistant materials.

Halogen salts, especially chlorides easily penetrate this passive film and will allow corrosive attack to occur. The halogens are easy to recognize because they end in the letters "ine". Listed in order of their activity they are: fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine. These are the same chemicals that will penetrate Teflon and cause trouble with Teflon coated or encapsulated O-Rings and/ or similar coated materials. Chlorides are one of the most common elements in nature and if that isn't bad enough they are also soluble, active ions; the basis for good electrolytes, the best conditions for corrosion or chemical attack.

People are surprised to learn that stainless steel will rust and corrode in the presence of chloride salts, free chlorine or sulfide gases. Environments that produce these elements are ocean spray, salted highways, chemical treatments added to swimming pools, and ground water in numerous coastal areas. But, with proper care and cleaning, your stainless products can be maintained for a lifetime in perfect condition.

If your Stainless Shows Signs of Rusting:
• Wash with fresh water and a high-quality detergent.
• Clean with a car or marine chrome polish.
• Wax with a car or fiberglass wax.

• DO NOT clean with chlorinated cleaners (no bleach!) or scouring powders.
• DO NOT use sand paper or abrasive cleaners on buffed or mirror finished metals.
• DO NOT clean with muratic or hydrochloric acids.

5.  A frozen plastic gallon jug of drinkable water will keep the inside of your ice chest colder much longer than chipped ice. As it thaws it also provides you a source of cold drinking water.

4.  Successfully completing a Coast Guard boating course will usually get you a reduction in boat insurance premiums.

3.  You should always have your boat’s registration or documentation on board. Storing them in a ziploc style plastic bag works well.

2. A coat hangar (or two) in your on-board tool kit can be a very useful item. You can use it as a temporary tie-down, in place of a lost cotter pin, to clear a blocked hose or even fish something out of an area your arm won't fit in.

1. Always file a float plan. You can find out more about float plans HERE and download an example of float plan that you can be printed out on your home computer HERE

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Send email to sales@familyboatingcenters.com OR CALL (813) 884-1395.        Last modified: August 12, 2008